Growing Vegetables
So you've decided to grow your own vegetables, as part of your good housekeeping practices? It's a great way to save money, have fun and involve the whole family. Hosting dinner parties will never be the same as you sirrupticiously observe your guests devouring your beloved potatoes, carrots and peas. Those barmy summer nights, ideal for dining alfresco will take on a new dimension when you proudly present your salad greens to your hungry, appreciative audience... No more daydreaming there's work to be done. let's get started on growing vegetables.
The following page is split into the following growing vegetables sections: 1. Preparing the ground 2. What to plant 3. Sweetcorn 4. Runner beans 5. Peas 6. potatoes 7. Carrots 8. Letttuce 9. Onions 1. How do I prepare the ground when growing vegetables? Well, when growing vegetables choose a part of the garden that benefits from at least 7 hours of direct sunlight per day. Clear the area removing any weeds. The importance of identifying weed types cannot be over emphasised: annuals such as groundsel and shepherds purse are relatively easy to remove and can be thrown on the compost heap, perrenials on the other hand are more problematic. This group of weeds includes nettles and the resiliant couch grass. Commercial weedkillers are effective but for all weed types manual removal is possible providing you get under the roots and alleviate any traces to prohibit regrowth. For ideal vegetable growing conditions plant beneath a small/medium sized hedge leaving half a metre or so between the hedge and first row of crops. This will provide adequate shelter from the wind without depriving crops of water and sunlight. Soil condition is of vital importance, so amend poor quality soil to at least 30cm depth with compost, composted manure or peat which should sit on 15cm or so of good draining soil. 2. What To Plant Plan your rows so that tall crops such as corn, or crops grown on trellises, such as beans and peas, don't shade lower plants such as lettuces and carrots. 3. Sweetcorn Prepare The Soil Prepare the soil from March onwards to give it time to settle.Dig to approximatley 1/2 metre depth introducing as much organic matter as possible. Corn is quite tolerant of most soil types(except clay) providing that the soil temperature is above 10c. and preferably in the region of 16c. Sowing and Thinning Corn seeds can be planted straight into the ground from mid May onwards but for more reliable results sow seeds indoors from late April: two seeds per 7cm in potting compost, preferably in peat pots from which they can be thinned (remove the weaker of each pair)taken outside to 'harden' then transferred straight into the soil. Corn should be planted in blocks of 46cm x 48cm; although this takes up a lot of space other crops can be grown in between. Harvest Harvest after 12 weeks but first test for ripeness. Gently pierce a kernel with your fingertips, a creamy coloured liquid emmision indicates the corn is ready; if the liquid is watery, leave to ripen. 4. Runner Beans Prepare The Ground Prepare the soil from March onwards to give it time to settle. Choose an area where the runner beans will get plenty of sun and shelter from the wind Well dug soil is a must; add lots of rotting organic matter to aid water retention. Sowing and Thinning Plant late April but cover with supported plastic sheets if a late frost is expected, alternatively sow in peat pots which should be soaked in water before being planted directly into the ground. Dig out a shallow trench approximately 5cm deep planting each row about 1.5metres apart, with one seed every 15cm. Thin to 1 seed every 30cm after about 3 weeks. Runner bean plants grow up to 2metres high so set a trellis structure in place so that the vines can attached for support. Harvest They should be ready to harvest within 13 weeks of planting. 5. Peas Prepare The Ground Prepare the soil from Dececember onwards.Plenty of moisture is a must so choose an area that is not too close to a fence or wall, Peas can tolerate most soil types but prefer medium dug with good water retention; plenty of rotting organic compost can help to achieve this. will grow in sun or partial shade but need protection from strong winds. Sowing and Thinning Peas are quite hardy and some varieties ( check packets for details ) can be sown outside from March onwards. dig a trench, 3cm deep and after soaking seeds in water sow singularly at 5cm intervals. multiple rows should be planted at a distance of the expected height of the plants. All varieties will need support via a trellis structure or a simply method of placing long twigs close to the plants to allow the tendrils to intertwine. To encourage growth of lower shoots, pinch the plants when they reach the top of their supporting structure.. Harvest Depending on the variety peas are ready to harvest 12 to 15 weeks after planting or 3 weeks after flowering. 
6. PotatoesPrepare The Ground When growing vegeatbles - especially potatoes - prepare the soil around mid November to give it time to settle. Ideally choose a warm and sunny site with little or no shade. Potatoes take a lot of space so be sure to allocated enough ground. Don't try to grow in successive years because any disease from one crop can be easily transferred if the soil is not allowed to settle. Potatoes grow in most soils providing they are free from stones and lumps and the soil is well composted and well dug. Do not add lime. Grow from seed potatoes which should be purchased ready for planting from mid January. Remember there are many different varieties so read growing instructions on rear of packets. It is best to allow the seed potatoes to sprout before planting. Ideal sprout length should be approximately 2.5 cm and sprouts should be green in colour (white indicates the seeds have not received enough light). Remove all but the uppermost four sprouts to ensure you get all the goodness. Planting should be done mid - March. If sprouting appears early then can be removed up to five times without any damage to the seeda then take suitable growing recepticles such as egg boxes and plant with sprouting end up. Place in light airy positions where the average temperature is approximately 10 degrees. Sowing and Thinning Main crops can be planted from mid-March onwards but if cold snap is predicted delay planting until April when soil temperature is likely to be in excess of 6 degrees. Frost is the main danger to potato seeds so in the event of a late frost simply cover any shoots appearing above ground level with soil drawn from the edges of the trench.Dig trenches about 19cm deep and plant 35cm apart. Leave 75cm between rows and align rows north to south to ensure each row has gets its share of sun. Handfill trenches to avoid damamging the seeds adding lots of bonemeal or a similar fertilizer New potatoes should be planted in July or August to be harvested in October. Follow planting instructions as for main crops but seeds can be be planted 30cm apart in rows that are 60cm apart. Frost is the main danger to potato seeds so in the event of a late frost simply cover any shoots appearing above ground level with soil drawn from the edges of the trench. When plants have grown to 20cm draw the soil up around them (creating furrows)leaving about 2cm of shoot exposed. Repeat this 2 or 3 weeks later. Pull up weeds at regular intervals during the growing season adding a good quality fertilizer mid May. Harvest Potatoes should be ready to harvest between 13 and 17 weeks after planting depending on the variety. 7. Carrots Prepare The Ground Prepare the soil 2 weeks before planting Dig to a spades depth forking in handful of bonemeal every square metre or so.Carrots prefer finely dug soil containing lots of well rotted organic material. Early varieties grow best in full sun but maincrops benefit from some shade particularly during peak summer months. Sowing and Thinning Early varieties can be planted outside during April with no protection, maincrops can be planted between April and July to enjoy for most of the year. Sow in trenches hand-dug to 2cm and plant seeds 2.5cm apart. Carrot seeds are very fine so empty some of the packet into the palm of your hand and take a pinch of seeds dropping 2 every 2.5cm or so ialong the trench. Avoid over-sowing as this will necessitate lots of thinning later on.. Cover seeds with a layer of fine soil and pat down firmly. In dry conditions water immediately with a spray can.Do not feed as this will encourage foliage growth at the expense of carrot growth. Seedling will appear 2-3 weeks later. Thin maincrop varieties to 20cm (early varieties to 15cm) After thinning ensure soil is patted down to reduce the risk of carrot fly, attracted by the thinning process. Harvest Carrots have reached maturity when the foliage begins to wilt. Taking a fork release the roots and using a lever type action release the carrots from the ground. 8. Lettuce Prepare The Ground Most varieties of lettuce can tolerate any soil type providing it can hold water, is well drained and well dug and is not acidic. Ideal soil ype is clay broken down with lots of peat. Select an area that is in partial shade to avoid full sun particularly at mid day. Sowing & Thinning For Cos and Iceberg varieties sow between March to May and March to June respectively. . Dig shallow trenches, 2 cm deep with each trench 30cm apart. place 3 or 4 seeds every 3cm, cover with soil and pat down firmly but gently. If the soil is dry remember to water. Lettuce seedlings require lots of watering and weeding for effective growth. Seedlings appear mwithin 7 to 14 days and should be thinned out so that they are 25cm apart.Place a layer of organic material around the plants, this will help to keep the soil moist and prevent weed growth. Harvest Lettuce are ready to harvest 11 or so weeks after planting. A word of warning they do not keep well once ripe, either in the house or if left in the ground, so ideally plant every three weeks or so for continuity. 9. Onions Prepare The Ground Select an area that benefits from full sun Onions can tolerate many soil types athough they prefer rich, light soil. Dig to a depth of 45cm and work in organic matter. Ideally start preparation well in advance:mid December for maincrops and mid June for the Japanese variety. Sowing & Thinning Remove stones and trea dsoil until firm prior to sowing: Maincrop seeds and small onion bulbs (sets) can be sown outside from mid March with no protection. Choose a dry day for planting in moist soil. Dig trenches 2cm deep and 30cm apart and drop in 3 -4 seeds every 15cm. Onion bulbs have more successful growth rates than seed and can be planted 10cm apart and to a depth where only the very tips are showing. Dig holes in the soil and plant with the necks uppermost. (do not push them into the soil) Spring onions seeds can be sown from early April until early June. Cover the seeds lightly with the soilSow at three weekly intervals for continuity. Other than that they require little attention other than watering and weeding Japanese onion seeds should be sown mid August. Maincrops and Japanese thin when seedlings reach 5cm to 13cm apart. Maincrop onions grown from bulbs and spring onions need little attention other than watering and weeding Harvest Maincrops and Japanese varieties should be ready to harvest a week or so after the foliage turns brown or shrivels. Choose a sunny day and gently ease the onions out of the ground using a gardening fork. Once extracted leave to dry in the sun then store in a cool, dry, dark place. Be sure to separate the onions using newspaper or netting. Maincrops will keep for about two months if stored in the right conditions but japanese or wide necked onions deteriorate quicker and should be consumed within a month. Spring onions are ready to harvest when grow to 45cm high. Eat within a day or so of harvesting because they do not keep. From growing vegetables, to gardening tips |
